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    from the bar

    At Eataly’s Terra, white wine from an unexpected grape

    Maya Vaidya

    If you only associate riesling with Germany and Alsace, Jessica Brennan has a head-turning bottle just for you. The beverage director of Eataly, in the Prudential Center, can’t say enough about a 2016 pour called “Era Ora” from Giacomo Borgogno e Figli ($16 a glass, $55 a bottle, $20 for a mini carafe). “Andrea Farinetti thought it was time to plant a white varietal,” says Brennan, referring to the winemaker who helms an estate already famous for Barolo. He chose to cultivate riesling for its ability to age and to express Piemonte’s terroir. Now pouring at Terra, the restaurant resembling a chic greenhouse on the third floor, the white is excellent with “cuore di lattuga,” a salad prepared by chef de cuisine Dan Bazzinotti. Little Gem lettuce, sporting char from the wood-fired grill, is dressed in a sweet garlic vinaigrette and tossed with roasted onions, pickled red pearl onions, and chives. The dish is enhanced by what’s in the glass. “It’s completely dry and elegant,” enthuses Brennan. “It has a crisp zing that helps bring out all of the flavors.”

    Terra, 800 Boylston St., Boston, 617-807-7307,


    Ellen Bhang can be reached at